By Terri Milligan, Special to the Journal Sentinel
Feb. 11, 2014
The French have provided the world with a host of culinary delights: from great wine and terrific cheese to classic pastries such as eclairs and cream puffs.
Two favorite French classics are the tatin, an upside-down dessert traditionally made with apples, and the simple tartine, an open-faced sandwich served on freshly baked crusty bread that is becoming increasingly popular across the United States.
On paper, they differ by just two letters. But on a plate, they're very different — but both wonderful — foods.
The tatin
Some of the best recipes are made by mistake, with the origins of these culinary mishaps taking on different interpretations throughout the years. One of the best "happy accident" recipes is the apple tatin.
The credit for this now-classic dessert goes to two French sisters, Stephanie and Caroline Tatin, who operated the Hotel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, France, about 100 miles south of Paris.
As with many chefs, Stephanie Tatin found herself overworked one day.
While making the restaurant's popular apple pie, the scent of burning apples started to fill her kitchen. The apples she was sautéing in butter and sugar had begun to caramelize. To her dismay, her precious apples were overcooked for her pies.
Trying to save the ingredients, she quickly put the crust on top and placed the pan in the oven. The restaurant's guests were delighted with this new "upside-down version" of the restaurant's popular apple pie.
Over the years, tatin variations have included such items as beets, winter squash and a variety of fruits such as pears and plums.
A favorite savory version includes cherry tomatoes, caramelized onions and Gruyere cheese.
The tartine
Open-face sandwiches have been a staple on our plates since the Middle Ages. And it seems as though each country has its own version.
In Italy it's bruschetta or crostini. In Scandinavia its smørrebrød, the open-face rye bread sandwich garnished with such toppings as smoked fish, hard-boiled eggs and liver pates. And in France, it's tartine.
"Tartine literally means a piece of bread with something on top," explained Joel Kersebet, a native of the Burgundy region of France and owner of Base Camp, a cafe and coffee shop located in Sister Bay. "Tartines can be sweet or savory.
"I remember coming home from school as a young boy, having a piece of bread with butter on top, and it would be called a tartine. When I was looking for a menu item that was simple and more like a quick bite, I thought back to my youth. The savory tartines perfectly complement the sweets from our bakery."
Little did Kersebet know he was on the cutting edge of a trend when he included tartines on his cafe menu. Tartines have emerged as one of the "in" foods of the moment. Especially popular on the West Coast, tartines are larger than a bruschetta and more complex than a crostini.
Tartines can be served warm or at room temperature and are included on menus everywhere, from under breakfast to dessert.
Traditionally made with a slice of hearty crusty bread, Kersebet leans toward the use of his own homemade baguettes. "I like the crunchiness of the crust and the softness of the dough," he said.
The avocado hummus, grilled asparagus, shaved radish and Asiago tartine recipe offers a terrific blend of tasty spring vegetable, spicy radish and salty Asiago cheese.
Kersebet's tartine offering blends Wisconsin-made triple-cream Carr Valley Creama Kasa cheese topped with fresh tomatoes and a homemade black olive tapenade.
Add a simple mound of dressed greens or a cup of homemade soup and a tartine becomes a filling and colorful lunch or light dinner entrée.
Terri Milligan is a professional chef and culinary instructor. Follow her on her website, chefterrimilligan.com.
